6 RV Fender Skirts Replacement Tips for DIY Owners
Upgrade your RV with these 6 essential fender skirt replacement tips. Learn to source the right parts, ensure a secure fit, and maintain your vehicle’s look.
Few things dampen the spirit of a road trip faster than a cracked, flapping fender skirt threatening to tear away on the highway. While these plastic components seem minor, they are your first line of defense against road debris and water intrusion into your wheel wells. Mastering the replacement process is a rite of passage for any long-term RVer, turning a potential roadside disaster into a manageable weekend project.
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Assessing Damage to Your RV Fender Skirts
Before you rush to buy replacements, take a moment to evaluate the extent of the damage. Minor stress cracks near the screw holes can often be reinforced with backing plates, but once the plastic becomes brittle or large chunks are missing, replacement is the only viable path.
Inspect the surrounding sidewall for signs of moisture damage or structural rot. If the skirt has been missing for a while, water may have seeped into the subfloor, which requires an entirely different repair strategy than just swapping out a cosmetic piece.
Sourcing Icon Direct Replacement Fender Skirts
Icon Direct is widely considered the gold standard for aftermarket fender skirts, primarily because they specialize in recreating hard-to-find molds for specific RV makes and models. If you own a legacy trailer where the manufacturer has long since gone out of business, Icon’s database is likely your best bet for a seamless fit.
I recommend Icon Direct for owners who prioritize an “OEM-look” and want to avoid the headache of custom fabrication. Their products are durable and well-formed, though they can be pricey; for those on a tight budget or with a heavily modified rig, you might find their specific molds too rigid. If you value time over absolute lowest cost, Icon is the clear winner.
Measuring Your Wheel Well for Proper Fitment
Never rely solely on your RV’s year, make, and model when ordering parts, as manufacturers frequently swapped components mid-production. Always measure the height, width, and the specific arc of your wheel well opening.
Use a flexible tailor’s tape measure to follow the contour of the wheel well rather than measuring straight across. Take note of the distance between existing screw holes, as even a quarter-inch discrepancy can turn a simple installation into a frustrating afternoon of drilling new holes into your sidewall.
Removing Old Fender Skirts Without Body Damage
The biggest risk during removal is pulling away chunks of your RV’s siding or stripping the wood substrate underneath. Use a heat gun on a low setting to soften the old sealant around the edges, which makes pulling the skirt away significantly easier.
If a screw is rusted tight, don’t force it with a drill, as you’ll likely strip the head and be left with a spinning fastener. Use a manual impact driver or a pair of locking pliers to grip the head and back it out slowly, ensuring you don’t enlarge the hole in the sidewall.
Using Dicor Lap Sealant for Water Tightness
Seal your RV roof with Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant. Its self-leveling formula ensures easy, smooth application and creates a secure, sun-ray stabilized seal compatible with various roofing materials.
Dicor Lap Sealant is the industry standard for a reason: it is self-leveling and designed to expand and contract with the temperature fluctuations of a moving home. When installing your new skirt, apply a generous bead along the top edge where the skirt meets the sidewall to prevent water from running behind the plastic.
Be aware that Dicor is not an adhesive; it is a sealant. Never rely on it to hold the skirt in place, as it will eventually fail under the vibration of the road. Use it strictly as a weather-proofing agent after the mechanical fasteners are secure.
Selecting Stainless Steel Screws for Durability
Your RV is constantly exposed to moisture, road salt, and humidity, which will turn standard zinc-plated screws into corroded eyesores in a single season. Always upgrade to stainless steel screws to prevent rust streaks from bleeding down your sidewall.
Additionally, consider using screws with a slightly larger diameter than the originals if the existing holes have become stripped. A stainless steel screw with a rubber-backed washer is the ideal choice, as it creates a secondary barrier against water entry at the point of penetration.
Applying Butyl Tape for a Watertight Seal
Before you tighten the final screws, apply a layer of butyl tape along the back flange of the fender skirt. Butyl tape is a non-hardening, sticky compound that remains flexible for years, effectively sealing the gap between the plastic skirt and the RV siding.
When you tighten the screws, the tape will compress and squeeze out slightly, ensuring an airtight seal. You can easily trim the excess with a plastic putty knife once the installation is complete, leaving a clean, professional finish.
Aligning Screw Holes on RecPro Fender Flares
RecPro offers a fantastic range of universal and semi-custom fender flares that are excellent for those who want a modern look or are working on a custom build. Their products are generally easier to source and ship quickly, making them a top choice for DIYers who need a solution now.
However, because these are often “universal,” the screw holes may not align perfectly with your existing factory pattern. I recommend RecPro for the patient DIYer who doesn’t mind filling old holes with epoxy and drilling new ones to get a perfect, secure fit.
Finishing Touches With Geocel Pro Flex Sealant
Seal tight with Geocel Pro Flex RV Sealant. It adheres to damp surfaces and can be painted, offering a durable, dirt-resistant seal.
While Dicor is perfect for horizontal roofs, Geocel Pro Flex is my go-to for vertical surfaces and fender skirts. It is a high-performance, flexible sealant that won’t sag or run when applied to the sides of your rig.
Use a small bead of Geocel around the perimeter of the skirt to seal any remaining gaps where the flange meets the siding. It cures to a clear or color-matched finish and provides that final layer of protection against road spray and rain.
Routine Maintenance for Your Fender Skirts
Once installed, your work isn’t quite done. Every few months, perform a “shake test” by giving the skirts a firm tug to ensure no fasteners have vibrated loose.
Check the sealants periodically for cracking or peeling, especially after a long, hot summer or a harsh winter. A quick touch-up with a dab of sealant now can prevent a major, expensive structural repair later.
Replacing your RV fender skirts is a manageable task that pays dividends in both aesthetics and structural integrity. By choosing the right materials and taking your time with the sealing process, you ensure your home stays dry and road-ready for years to come. Remember, the best defense against major repairs is proactive, careful maintenance of these small but vital exterior components.