8 Reliable Supplies For Holding Open Heavy Camper Compartment Doors For Full-Time RVers

Struggling with heavy RV doors? Discover 8 reliable supplies for holding open camper compartment doors and improve your full-time RV setup today. Read more here.

Imagine reaching into your RV’s pass-through storage for a heavy sewer hose or your solar setup, only to have the massive compartment door crash down onto your head or hands. For full-time RVers, failing baggage door hardware isn’t just a daily annoyance; it is a genuine safety hazard that can damage expensive gear or cause painful injuries. Upgrading to the right holding mechanism secures your workspace, protects your rig’s exterior, and brings sanity back to daily camp setup tasks.

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Why RV Compartment Door Struts Fail Over Time

Standard factory RV baggage door struts are typically built to the lowest cost margin, meaning they are prone to rapid degradation under full-time use. Inside every gas strut is a pressurized volume of nitrogen and a small amount of lubricating oil held back by rubber seals. Over months of exposure to road vibrations, dust, and temperature swings, these seals dry out, slowly weeping gas until the strut can no longer support the weight of the door.

Extreme weather accelerates this failure curve significantly. Freezing winter temperatures cause the internal rubber seals to contract and harden, allowing the pressurized gas to escape much faster than it would in mild weather. Conversely, baking summer heat increases the internal pressure of the strut, stressing weakened seals and often leading to sudden, total pressure loss when you open the door.

How to Measure Your Baggage Door for Hardware

Ordering the wrong size strut is a frustrating mistake that can bend your door hinges or tear mounting brackets clean out of the fiberglass wall. To get the perfect replacement, you must measure the extended length from the center of one mounting ball joint to the center of the other with the door fully open. Next, measure the compressed length by checking the distance when the door is closed, ensuring the strut has enough physical room to collapse without bottoming out.

Do not guess the weight capacity your door requires. You can find this by disconnecting the old struts, placing a bathroom scale under the edge of the open door using a broom handle, and reading the weight. A door that exerts 15 pounds of downward force generally needs two struts rated for around 20 pounds (approx. 90-100 Newtons) each to account for leverage loss at the mounting angles.

Gas Strut – Apexstone 100N Gas Spring

Gas struts provide hands-free operation by lifting and holding the door automatically once you release the latch, which is essential when your hands are full of leveling blocks or power cords. The Apexstone 100N Gas Spring is a highly reliable mid-range option designed to replace worn-out factory hardware on standard-sized basement doors. With 22.5 pounds of force per strut, this pair provides a smooth, controlled lift that won’t violently jerk the door hinges upon reaching full extension.

  • Force rating: 22.5 lbs (100 Newtons) per strut
  • Extended length: 10 inches (254 mm)
  • Best for: Standard fiberglass or aluminum basement doors

These struts feature a 10-inch extended length and come equipped with standard 10mm ball sockets, making them a direct drop-in replacement for most Class A and fifth-wheel baggage doors. The shaft is treated with a corrosion-resistant coating to withstand road spray and moisture.

Keep in mind that these are designed for medium-weight fiberglass or aluminum doors. If you have extremely heavy, insulated custom doors or very small, lightweight utility hatches, a 100N rating will either be too weak or too stiff to close safely. They are ideal for standard side-hinged or top-hinged baggage doors on mainstream travel trailers and mid-profile fifth wheels.

Heavy-Duty Gas Strut – Suspa C16-08222 Prop

Massive pass-through storage doors on large luxury fifth wheels and diesel pushers require a heavier grade of support to combat wind resistance and sheer weight. The Suspa C16-08222 Prop is a premium, industrial-grade strut engineered specifically to handle heavy, insulated basement doors without sagging over time. Delivering 40 pounds of force per strut, this hardware ensures that even massive, thick-insulated doors stay securely overhead during high winds.

  • Force rating: 40 lbs (180 Newtons) per strut
  • Extended length: 19.7 inches (500 mm)
  • Best for: Heavy, insulated pass-through storage doors

Suspa is a leading OEM supplier, and this model features a robust steel body, a precision-ground piston rod, and high-grade seals designed for high-cycle lifespans. The extended length sits at 19.7 inches, providing a wide opening angle that gives you unhindered access to deep storage bays.

Because of the high pressure rating, installing these on lightweight, uninsulated doors can bow the door frame or warp the fiberglass skin over time. Use these strictly for heavy, double-walled utility doors that require significant lifting assistance, and always mount them to reinforced framing points on the RV chassis.

Magnetic Door Catch – Kohree RV Door Holder

For side-hinged doors where gas struts are impractical or physically impossible to mount, magnetic catches offer a foolproof, non-mechanical solution. The Kohree RV Door Holder uses high-strength magnets to grab and hold the door flat against the side of your rig with a simple push. This completely eliminates the struggle of operating stiff latches while holding heavy gear, allowing you to secure the door with a quick swing.

  • Retaining style: Magnetic contact with spring bumper
  • Material: UV-resistant ABS and neodymium magnets
  • Best for: Side-hinged utility and entry doors

This kit features a spring-loaded bumper mechanism inside the catch to absorb the impact of the door swinging open, protecting your RV’s gel coat from stress cracks. The housing is constructed from weather-resistant ABS plastic, shielding the strong neodymium magnets from rain, road salt, and UV degradation.

Before purchasing, ensure you have flat, clear wall space next to your door hinge for the receiver to mount. Since this system relies on physical contact, it is not suitable for top-hinged doors that lift vertically, but it is the perfect low-maintenance upgrade for side-opening baggage and entry doors.

T-Style Door Holder – JR Products 10585 Steel

When boondocking in high-wind desert areas, magnetic holders can fail, letting a heavy door slam shut on your head; this is where mechanical locks are indispensable. The JR Products 10585 Steel T-Style Door Holder provides an absolute, physical lock-out that cannot be undone by gusting winds. The 4-inch metal arm swings from the wall bracket and hooks securely into the door-mounted socket, mechanically pinning the door open.

  • Lock type: T-style manual hook
  • Material: Rust-resistant stainless steel
  • Best for: Boondocking in high-wind conditions

Constructed from heavy-duty stainless steel, this holder resists rust, bending, and UV damage far better than its cheap plastic counterparts. The simple, low-profile design means there are no internal springs to rust or gas seals to leak, making it virtually indestructible.

Operating this holder requires a manual step: you must walk to the side of the rig and physically hook or unhook the arm every time you use the door. This makes it less convenient than a gas strut or magnetic latch, but it is the absolute safest choice for full-timers who camp in wind-prone off-grid locations.

Plunger Door Holder – Lippert Plunger and Receiver

Plunger-style holders offer a convenient middle ground between the instant release of magnets and the absolute security of a T-style mechanical arm. The Lippert Plunger and Receiver system works by forcing a durable rubberized plunger into a socket mounted on the door, holding it open via intense friction. This allows for quick, hands-free entry and exit—just push the door firmly to lock it, and pull it hard to release.

  • Lock type: Friction-fit elastomer plunger
  • Material: High-density polymer
  • Best for: Mid-to-heavy toy hauler ramp doors and side hatches

Lippert uses a high-density elastomer for the plunger socket, which retains its elasticity and gripping power even after years of exposure to extreme heat and freezing cold. The base components are molded from impact-resistant polymer to prevent cracking when exposed to constant sunlight.

Because this system relies on physical friction, it does require a firm, physical push to engage and a strong tug to release, which might shake lightweight trailer walls. It is best suited for sturdier travel trailers and toy haulers with solid wall construction that can handle the repeated pushing and pulling forces.

Friction Hinge – Lippert Entry Door Friction Hinge

Installing external catches or struts on your main entry door can ruin the clean lines of your rig and create snag hazards on the exterior. The Lippert Entry Door Friction Hinge solves this by putting the holding power directly inside the door hinge itself, allowing the door to stay open at any angle you choose. This system can withstand wind gusts up to 25 mph without requiring any secondary straps, clips, or struts.

  • Retention style: Internal hinge friction
  • Wind resistance: Up to 25 mph
  • Best for: Main entry doors on fifth wheels and travel trailers

Designed to be added directly to existing Lippert entry doors, this hinge increases resistance throughout the entire swing radius without making the door difficult to operate. The internal brass and steel components are engineered to provide consistent tension without needing lubrication or adjustments over time.

Note that this product is specifically designed for standard RV entry doors rather than small baggage hatches. It requires precise installation with rivets or heavy-duty screws, so you should verify your door’s hinge compatibility before attempting this upgrade.

Plastic Grabber Catch – RV Designer E261 Catch

For lighter utility hatches, such as those housing outdoor showers, gravity fills, or electrical connections, heavy gas struts are complete overkill. The RV Designer E261 Catch is the industry-standard grabber latch that holds lightweight doors open with a simple, springless friction grip. This low-profile plastic catch is incredibly cost-effective and can be mounted in tight spaces where larger hardware won’t fit.

  • Retention style: Friction grabber clip
  • Material: UV-stabilized flexible plastic
  • Best for: Lightweight utility ports and shower hatches

Made from flexible, UV-stabilized plastic, this catch is designed to bend slightly to receive the door loop, holding it securely against light breezes. The package includes multiple catches, allowing you to swap out dry-rotted factory clips across your entire rig in minutes.

These plastic catches will degrade over time when exposed to constant sunlight, and they will snap if forced in sub-freezing temperatures. They are not intended for holding heavy, insulated pass-through doors, but they are the perfect, inexpensive solution for small, lightweight hatches.

Spring Loaded Catch – RecPro Baggage Door Clip

If you want a clean exterior look without struts protruding into your storage bays, a spring-loaded wall clip is a smart, mechanical alternative. The RecPro Baggage Door Clip mounts directly to the RV sidewall and uses a spring-tensioned arm to clamp the top edge of your baggage door flat against the rig. To use it, you simply lift the door and push it past the spring clip, which snaps down to hold the door firmly in place.

  • Retention style: Spring-tensioned mechanical clamp
  • Material: ABS housing with stainless steel spring
  • Best for: Top-hinged doors requiring a flush exterior mount

The housing is constructed from heavy-duty, UV-resistant ABS plastic, enclosing a stainless steel spring that won’t rust or lose its tension after seasons of wet weather. The mechanical spring design provides a more positive, secure hold than basic plastic grabber catches, preventing wind from catching the door edge.

Since this clip relies on a spring-loaded physical arm, you must physically reach up to lift the clip when releasing the door, meaning it is not a fully hands-free closing system. It is best suited for side-hinged or top-hinged doors where you have comfortable vertical reach to the top of the door frame.

Step-by-Step Guide to Installing Gas Struts

Installing gas struts requires precision; rushing the process will lead to a door that won’t close or a bracket that rips out under tension. Start by opening your baggage door to the desired angle—typically slightly past 90 degrees to allow rain run-off—and secure it in place with a ladder or a helper. Mark the mounting points on the door frame and the inner jamb, ensuring they align with the extended length of your new struts.

Drill small pilot holes into the marked locations, being extremely careful not to drill completely through the exterior skin of your RV door. Mount the ball brackets securely using heavy-duty, stainless steel screws; if mounting to thin fiberglass, use a backing plate or pop rivets to distribute the load. Once the brackets are firmly attached, snap the strut’s socket ends onto the ball joints, ensuring the rod end points downward when the door is closed to keep the internal seals lubricated.

Carefully test the door’s operation by closing it slowly for the first time, watching for any binding, twisting, or interference. If the door resists closing or bows outward, the mounting points are too close together, and you will need to adjust the jamb bracket downward to allow the strut to compress fully.

Tips for Preventing Wind Damage to Open Doors

High wind is the ultimate enemy of RV baggage doors, capable of catching an open hatch like a sail and twisting the hinges until the aluminum frame warps or cracks. Even high-quality gas struts can buckle if a sudden 40 mph gust catches a wide-open pass-through door. To prevent this, always park your rig with the utility and storage doors facing away from the prevailing wind when setting up camp in open desert or coastal sites.

For long-term stays in windy regions, consider adding a secondary safety strap or a mechanical T-style latch to supplement your gas struts. This dual-point retention system takes the shear load off the strut mounts and prevents the door from hyper-extending if a massive gust catches it. Finally, develop the habit of closing and locking all basement doors when leaving your rig unattended for the day; a sudden storm can easily cause thousands of dollars in body damage while you are away.

Conclusion

Upgrading your RV compartment door hardware eliminates a major daily friction point of mobile living. Whether you opt for the automated assist of Suspa gas struts or the windproof reliability of a stainless steel T-style latch, matching the right hardware to your door weight ensures your gear—and your hands—remain safe. Take the time to measure precisely, mount your brackets securely, and enjoy hassle-free access to your rig’s storage.

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