6 Best RV Heaters For Cold Weather Camping That Nomads Swear By

Waking up to ice on the inside of your windows is a rite of passage for any new cold-weather RVer. That biting cold seeping through the walls can make or break a winter adventure, turning a cozy haven into a chilly box. Choosing the right heater isn’t just about comfort; it’s about safety, efficiency, and making your small space livable when the temperature plummets.

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Key Factors in Selecting a Cold-Weather RV Heater

Before you buy anything, you need to understand the fundamental tradeoffs. Your choice boils down to three things: fuel type, power source, and heat style. There is no single "best" heater, only the best one for your specific setup and travel style.

Are you a boondocker who’s almost never plugged in? Then a 120V electric heater is just a heavy paperweight. Your world revolves around propane efficiency and 12V battery consumption. Conversely, if you spend your winters in RV parks, leaning on an electric heater can save you a fortune in propane.

Think about how you need the heat delivered. A forced-air furnace heats the whole rig, including your plumbing bays, but it’s noisy and power-hungry. A radiant heater, like a catalytic unit, warms objects directly and silently, but it won’t keep your tanks from freezing. Consider these core factors:

• Fuel Source: Propane, diesel, or electricity (shore power/generator).
• Power Draw: Does it need 12V DC power for a fan or 120V AC from an outlet?
• BTU Output: How much heating power do you need for your space and climate?
• Venting: Is it vented to the outside or an unvented indoor unit requiring ventilation?
• Installation: Is it a portable unit or a permanent, plumbed-in system?

Mr. Heater Big Buddy: Portable Propane Power

The Big Buddy is the Swiss Army knife of RV heating. It’s simple, effective, and you can find it almost anywhere. For years, it’s been the go-to for nomads needing a quick, powerful blast of heat without a complicated installation.

It runs on either one or two 1-pound propane canisters or can be adapted to a 20-pound tank for longer use. This flexibility is its greatest strength. You can use it to pre-heat a cold rig before your main furnace kicks in, provide supplemental heat in a drafty spot, or rely on it as your primary source in a smaller van. Its built-in tip-over switch and low-oxygen sensor provide a critical safety margin.

But here’s the deal you make with the Big Buddy: it’s an unvented heater, so you are the vent. It consumes oxygen and releases carbon monoxide and water vapor into your living space. You must crack a window or roof vent for fresh air exchange. Fail to do this, and you’re creating a dangerous environment. It’s a fantastic tool, but it demands your respect and attention.

Webasto Air Top 2000: Efficient Diesel Heat

If you see a custom camper van built for serious four-season travel, odds are high it has a diesel heater humming away inside. The Webasto Air Top (and its Espar/Eberspacher competitor) is the gold standard for a reason. It sips diesel directly from your vehicle’s main fuel tank, providing incredibly efficient, dry heat.

This unit is a game-changer for boondockers. It uses a tiny amount of 12V power to run its fan and fuel pump, meaning you can run it all night without draining your batteries. The heat it produces is also very dry, which is a massive advantage in cold, damp climates where condensation is a constant battle. It’s a fully-vented system, so all combustion byproducts are exhausted outside.

The tradeoff is cost and complexity. These units are expensive, and the installation is not for the faint of heart, involving tapping into your fuel line and cutting holes in your floor. But for full-timers who spend weeks or months in the cold, the investment pays for itself in fuel savings, battery health, and a condensation-free interior.

Suburban SF-35FQ: A Powerful Ducted Furnace

This is the furnace most people are familiar with. The Suburban SF series is the workhorse of the traditional RV industry, found in countless travel trailers, fifth wheels, and motorhomes. It’s a propane-fired, forced-air system designed to function as a central heating unit for the entire vehicle.

Its biggest advantage is its ducted system. By pushing hot air through vents strategically placed around the RV, it provides even, widespread heat. Crucially, many systems include a duct that blows warm air into the underbelly, where your water tanks and pipes are located. This is the single most effective way to prevent your plumbing from freezing in sub-zero temperatures.

The downside is its inefficiency. The fan motor is a significant 12V power draw, which can quickly deplete your batteries when you’re off-grid. It’s also notoriously loud, cycling on and off throughout the night. While it’s a powerful and effective solution, many nomads use it sparingly, preferring a quieter, more efficient secondary source for overnight comfort.

Camco Olympian Wave-6: Silent Catalytic Heat

A catalytic heater is a different beast entirely. Instead of a visible flame, it uses a chemical reaction with a platinum-coated ceramic mat to generate infrared radiant heat. The Camco Olympian Wave series is the most popular choice, providing completely silent, electricity-free warmth.

This is a boondocker’s dream. With no fan, it consumes zero battery power. It’s also incredibly efficient with propane. The radiant heat warms objects in the room—the walls, the furniture, you—which then radiate that warmth back into the space. It’s a comfortable, bone-deep warmth, much like sitting in the sun.

Like the Big Buddy, the Wave heaters are unvented and require proper ventilation. In fact, the safety warnings are even more pronounced. They are not equipped with a low-oxygen sensor, so the responsibility for ensuring adequate fresh air and using a CO detector falls entirely on the user. They are brilliant pieces of technology for the right person, but they are not a "set it and forget it" appliance.

Lasko 754200: Compact Ceramic Electric Option

Sometimes the simplest solution is the best one, and that’s where a small electric heater comes in. The Lasko ceramic heater is cheap, tiny, and dead simple to use. If you are plugged into shore power at an RV park, this little box can save you a ton of propane.

Its primary role is as a supplemental heater. You can use it to take the chill off a room without firing up your loud, power-hungry furnace. Point it at your feet while you work or place it in the bathroom to pre-heat the space before a shower. For those in milder climates, it might even be all you need on a chilly night.

Its limitation is obvious: it’s completely dependent on 120V AC power. It’s useless when boondocking unless you have a massive battery bank, a powerful inverter, and a way to recharge it all. It’s a great tool to have in your arsenal for campground stays, but it’s not a standalone solution for off-grid winter camping.

De’Longhi Radiator: Steady, Silent Electric Heat

While a ceramic heater gives you a quick blast of hot air, an oil-filled radiator provides a slow, steady, and silent heat. The De’Longhi is a popular model that excels at maintaining a consistent temperature without the noise and dry air associated with forced-air systems.

This type of heater is perfect for overnight use in a bedroom when you’re on shore power. You set the thermostat, and it quietly works to keep the space at a stable, comfortable temperature. The radiant heat feels more natural and less "baked" than the air from a ceramic heater, making it a favorite for those sensitive to dry air.

The tradeoff is speed and size. It takes a while to warm up a cold room, and the unit itself is bulkier and heavier than a compact ceramic heater. It’s not for a quick warm-up; it’s for sustained, silent comfort. Think of it as the crockpot of electric heaters—slow and steady wins the race.

RV Heater Safety: Ventilation and CO Detectors

Let’s be perfectly clear: any heater that burns fuel—propane or diesel—creates carbon monoxide (CO). Vented heaters like a Suburban furnace or a Webasto send this deadly, odorless gas outside. Unvented heaters, like a Big Buddy or an Olympian Wave, release it directly into your living space.

This is why ventilation is not optional; it is a mandatory part of the system. For an unvented heater, you must always have a source of fresh air, like a cracked window and a roof vent. This allows oxygen to enter and combustion byproducts to exit. It also helps manage the massive amount of water vapor that propane combustion produces, keeping your interior dry.

Your first line of defense is technology. You need multiple, functioning detectors in your rig. Install a combination CO/Propane detector near the floor and a separate, battery-powered CO detector near your sleeping area. Test them monthly. Your life depends on them. Never, ever become complacent about heater safety.

Ultimately, the best cold-weather strategy is a layered one. Many experienced nomads use their powerful furnace to bring the rig up to temperature, then switch to a silent catalytic or efficient diesel heater to maintain it overnight. By understanding the tradeoffs of each system, you can build a resilient and comfortable heating solution that keeps you safe and warm, no matter how low the mercury drops.